Villafranca to Herrerias on the Camino de Santiago

The walk from Villafranca del Bierzo to Herrerías marked our steady ascent toward the mountains of Galicia and the dramatic changes ahead. We left the quiet beauty of Villafranca early, crossing the river and beginning a long, winding journey through deep green valleys and sleepy hamlets. The Camino offered two main routes—one steep and scenic over the mountains, the other following the road through the valley. We chose the gentler valley route, winding through villages like Pereje, Trabadelo, and La Portela, where morning mist clung to the trees and cowbells echoed off the hillsides. The air grew more humid and earthy, and we began to sense that Galicia was near.

By the time we reached Herrerías, the mountains were closing in around us. This tiny village—more a cluster of homes and albergues nestled beside a clear stream—felt like a resting place on the edge of something greater. We knew the next day would bring the climb to O Cebreiro, one of the most iconic and demanding ascents of the Camino. But in Herrerías, everything slowed down. We watched horses graze in the pastures, dipped our feet in the cold water, and traded stories with other pilgrims under the fading light. It was peaceful, simple, and exactly what we needed before tackling the trail ahead.