Ponferrada to Villafranca on the Camino de Santiago

The walk from Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo winds through the fertile heart of the Bierzo region, offering a gentler stage after the steep mountain descent from Foncebadón. Leaving the stone towers of Ponferrada’s Templar Castle behind, we followed shaded lanes and quiet country roads past vineyards, chestnut groves, and small villages that seemed untouched by time. The terrain was kinder to our feet, and the cooler valley air made for pleasant walking. Along the way, we passed through towns like Camponaraya and Cacabelos, where local wine and fruit stands beckoned—refreshing rewards for steady progress under the morning sun.

As we approached Villafranca del Bierzo, the landscape grew more lush, and the Camino seemed to slow down, encouraging us to savor the surroundings. Villafranca, nestled between green hills and the Río Burbia, was a true gem. The town’s medieval layout and stone buildings give it an old-world charm, but it was the Iglesia de Santiago—with its Puerta del Perdón—that truly moved us. For pilgrims unable to continue to Santiago due to illness or hardship, this sacred door once offered a full spiritual indulgence. Standing there, knowing how far we’d come and how far still remained, was a humbling reminder of the Camino’s depth and meaning. That evening, we relaxed in a shady plaza, sharing tapas, laughter, and stories with other pilgrims beneath the warm Villafranca sky.