Astorga to Fancebadon on the Camino de Santiago

The walk from Astorga to Foncebadón is where the Camino de Santiago begins to trade the flat plains of the Meseta for the first real taste of the mountains. Leaving the stately charm of Astorga behind, we climbed gradually into the Montes de León, surrounded by increasingly rugged terrain, wildflowers, and sweeping views. The air grew cooler and fresher, a welcome change from the dry heat of the plateau. We passed through peaceful villages like Murias de Rechivaldo and Santa Catalina de Somoza, where stone houses and quiet cafés offered welcome breaks. The sound of birds and the crunch of gravel underfoot made this stretch feel more meditative—one of those rare Camino days when you can truly walk in silence and still feel connected.

As we neared Foncebadón, a mist began to roll in over the hills, giving the ancient pilgrim hamlet an almost mythical feel. Once nearly abandoned, Foncebadón has seen a revival in recent years, with a few albergues, cafés, and Camino signs bringing life back to its crumbling stone walls. Nestled high on the mountain slope, it felt like a hidden world—a place of reflection before the spiritual high point to come at Cruz de Ferro. That evening, surrounded by other pilgrims, we shared a simple meal and a sense of anticipation. The next day, we’d carry our stones to the iron cross, but for now, Foncebadón gave us rest, quiet, and a deep sense of being in the heart of something ancient and true.